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Frequently Asked Questions

Holes should be dug 38" to 40" deep for a regular 6" fence, and make sure to put 2" to 4" of gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage. the Post should end up 6' 2" high from the ground to the top of the post.

Yes 2" to 4" of Gravel should be put into the bottom of the hole for Drainage. Make sure that the post stands 6' 2" tall from the ground to the top of the post once the post has been placed on top of the gravel in the hole before pouring in concrete.

You should put approximately 2" to 4" of gravel in the bottom of the hole making sure the the Post stands 6' 2" tall from the ground to the top of the post.

An 8" diameter wide hole should be dug for the posts to be inserted for a solid Fence.

The Posts need to be placed Exactly 8 feet (96"), apart to the posts centres. If you encounter rocks, cement or other debris dis-allowing you to place the post at exactly 8 feet from the pervious post you can move the post slightly closer to the previous post But NEVER Further than 8 feet apart.

The reason for this is the the Stringers can be cut shorter than 8 feet but cannot be extended.

Once you have your Gravel in the hole and you place the posts into the hole the post must stand 6' 2" tall from the ground level to the top of the Post. This allows for up to 2" clearance on the bottoms of the fence boards to the top of the fence posts.

There is available Gate Hardware and instructions on the Slipfence Website. This hardware allows for a standard purchased Gate to be fastened to the last post or you can choose from the gates on the Slipfence website to be delivered with you fence.

There is available Gate Hardware and instructions on the Slipfence Website. This hardware allows for a standard Gate purchased from a home improvement store to be fastened to the Last post or you can choose from the gates on the Slipfence website to be delivered with you fence.

If you hit rocks that disable you to drill the Post hole exactly 8' from the previous post you can always drill slightly shorter than 8 feet from the previous post because the stringers can be cut. NEVER drill a post hole further than 8 feet from the previous post or the stringers will not fit.

even if you need to drill a foot shorter for one fence section it should not be noticeable.

If the posts have been set in concrete further than 8' or 96" from the previous post then it is recommended RE-drilling and resetting 3 posts that are 6 feet apart to cover the same 24foot span. Then after resetting three fence posts in concrete 6 feet apart, cut the 6 stringers to 6 feet and continue with the rest of the fence sections being 8' apart.

NEVER MAKE THE POST HOLES LONGER THAN 8 FEET APART !!

Shorter than 8 feet apart is OK because the Stringers can be cut to length but cannot be lengthened.

Yes the post holes can be shorter than 8 feet apart to accommodate for rocks or debris that you are unable to drill in that exact spot.

Yes the posts can be placed at a shorter distance than exactly 8 feet, (96") apart because the stringers can be cut to size if necessary.

NEVER PLACE THE POSTS FURTHER THAN 8 FEET APART TO THEIR CENTER !!

Shorter is better than longer because the stringers can be cut to size but cannot be lengthened.

Stringers can be cut with a Metal saw, Hack Saw, Aluminum Saw or Power saw with metal cutting blade. Anything that can cut metal will cut the stringers

Yes the Stringers can be cut to size if necessary. Try to cut on exactly a half board hole so the board widths look uniform in the fence section if you must cut down the stringer.

The carriage Part of the bolt which is the rounded top with the Square fitting between the top and the threads is to be inserted from the top through the square stringer hole and then through the Elongated bracket hole and the grip nut should be screwed onto the bottom of the Carriage bolt that is sticking out from the bottom of the Bracket and tightened when level.

It is very important to set your posts level in concrete. If they are not level you have 2" of play on each post with the elongated hole in each bracket to which you fasted the stringers to so the stringers should still be able to fasten to the posts even if the posts are not level. One thing that will be very noticeable in any fence construction project is if the posts are not set level in the concrete. It is very important to take the extra time when setting your Fence posts in concrete to get them level and as close to exactly 8 feet apart as possible. By doing this and having the posts set level and exactly 8 feet to the center of each post, the rest of your fence construction will be much quicker and easier to assemble.

The stringer should not Sag before you start attaching fence boards to it. If it is sagging prior to attaching the fence boards then the stringer could be bent so a straight stringer should be used. If the Stringer sags after you have attached your fence boards to it with the wood screws then the fence boards were fastened to the stringers incorrectly. To fix this sag you must un-screw the wood screws until all of your Fence boards in that section are now released from the stringer. Then eyeball the stringer from the end to make sure that is is now straight without the weight of the Fence boards on it. Do this for both top and bottom stringers. Then once you have made sure that then stringers are straight you must attached the fence boards one at a time by first screwing through the top two screw holes into the boards adn then the bottom two for each board. NEVER, screw in all of the top screws and then all of the bottom ones after. This will cause the Stringers to sag.

Screw in top two then bottom two for each board one at a time.


Another tip if the boards are really wet and weighing down the stringer during installation, is to place your centre board in through the centre board hole in both the top and the bottom stringer and push it all the way down to the ground. Then push up on your top stringer creating a little bit of a bow in the top stringer and fasten the board to the top stringer with the tw screws provided. Then do the same with the bottom stringer. Pull it up creating a bow and fasten the board to the stringer with the two bottom screws.

The stringer should not Sag before you start attaching fence boards to it. If it is sagging prior to attaching the fence boards then the stringer could be bent so a straight stringer should be used. If the Stringer sags after you have attached your fence boards to it with the wood screws then the fence boards were fastened to the stringers incorrectly. To fix this sag you must un-screw the wood screws until all of your Fence boards in that section are now released from the stringer. Then eyeball the stringer from the end to make sure that is is now straight without the weight of the Fence boards on it. Do this for both top and bottom stringers. Then once you have made sure that then stringers are straight you must attached the fence boards one at a time by first screwing through the top two screw holes into the boards adn then the bottom two for each board. NEVER, screw in all of the top screws and then all of the bottom ones after. This will cause the Stringers to sag.

Screw in top two then bottom two for each board one at a time.

If your last or first section in your fence project is less than 8 feet that is fine. The stringers can be cut to size for a shorter section with any Hack saw or Metal saw.

Try to use Post Hole Concrete as it dries quickly and you can get started on your fence installation quicker than regular concrete. Although either will work.

Tools required for the installation of your fence are the following:

1) Post hole Digger

2) Level

3) 10mm socket wrench or socket on a drill

4) Phillips or Robertson #2 screwdriver or drill with either bit.

5) Metal Saw

6) 2" x 6" board 7 feet long

Concrete Post tubes are usually a better way to set your posts into the ground and are recommended. 8" diameter is sufficient.

There is a Slipfence Repair sleeve on the Slipfence Website to repair broken Fence posts.

There are also instructions on the website to repair the Post.

Unscrew the wood screws holding the fence board in place and simply slip the broken board out and slip a new fence board in through both stringers making sure it is level with the other boards in the section and then screw in the wood screws first top and then bottom

A corner post can be added anywhere in your Fence construction project simply by inverting the end bracket, (upside down), and then stacking it on top of another end bracket on the 90 degree side providing a nice level stringer seat for both fence sections.

A T-post can be added anywhere in your Fence construction project simply by inverting the end bracket, (upside down), and then stacking it on top of another 180 bracket on the 90 degree side providing a nice level stringer seat for all three fence sections.

An X-post can be added anywhere in your Fence construction project simply by inverting the 180 bracket, (upside down), and then stacking it on top of another 180 bracket on the opposite sides providing a nice level stringer seat for all four fence sections.